Christmas in New Orleans

I have to tell you that Christmas in New Orleans is special. My wife and I have been to New Orleans quite a number of times. We started going there after my son graduated college. Frankly, that was the first time we could afford it. Anyone in the middle class with kids understands that I’m sure.

We had heard about spending Christmas there on our earlier trips, but hadn’t felt like we should spend it away from family. This year we had no obligations, so we decided to see what a New Orleans Christmas looked like.

We were not disappointed. I’m a musician, so being in a city that has music everywhere was just great for me. We also love good food, and N’Awlins has that in spades. The seafood and Southern cuisine just aren’t the same elsewhere.

When you mix the music and food with Christmas, it’s unforgettable.

My wife, her cousin and pal Monica, and I drove in from Ohio. We took 2 days which allowed us an evening on Beale Street in Memphis. But that’s another story.

Here’s just a touch of the Christmas decorations around the city.

We stayed at the Quarter House on Chartres. It’s a time-share that we swapped into. Had a very nice 2 bedroom suite and our week there was quite enjoyable. The suites were named after plantations in the area.

Our suite was called Oak Alley. these are photos of the plantation and a written description of the plantation itself.

We landed in our suite just before dinnertime, and we decided to have dinner at the Acme Oyster House,which is about three blocks away.

The Acme Oyster House

724 Iberville Street

The Acme is a restaurant that I just love. They don’t take reservations and there is always a line. If you have a small party of two or three though, you’re probably only going to have to wait a few minutes. Also, you’re in New Orleans. This is a friendly city and as usual, I got into a conversation with another Acme lover while I was waiting

He was a band director from a Georgia High School and he was well versed in the goings on in NOLA over Christmas, which I took advantage of.since I had never been here during the Christmas season before.

We were inside before we knew it and elected to sit at the bar. The Acme is
a loud, raucous restaurant. Don’t expect waiters in tails. That said, the staff is friendly and efficient, the oysters are the freshest I’ve ever found, and the red beans and rice is to die for.

I ordered 6 plump raw oysters and 6 char grilled. The raw oysters were great and the char grilled were totally enjoyable.

My wife ordered red beans and rice with smoked sausage which I was forced to sample.

We went back a few days later and after my token 6 raw oysters, ordered a superb soft-shelled crab. I even remembered to take a picture of it but only after I had chewed off one leg.

We enjoyed their excellent beer selection and full bar as well.

It was a bit rainy and we were tired from our trip so after dinner we went back to our suite and got a good nights sleep. Stop by their website at www.acmeoyster.com.

Royal Street shops

On Saturday we strolled down Royal Street and looked at all the window displays of art and antiques. There were some gorgeous displays along with a lot of fun ones. The first has some amazing chandeliers along with full size wooden soldiers and a beautiful fireplace with a cascading Christmas garland.

The second is of of an antique scale along with something wrapped in a Tabasco apron with a Santa hat. Face it, New Orleans is all about spicy.

Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop

941 Bourbon Street

We always visit Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop. It was built sometime between 1722 abd 1732. It’s the oldest building used as a bar in the US. It’s also a piano bar in the evenings with some superb musicians.

Their hurricanes are absolutely first rate and if there are better ones in NOLA, I have yet to find them. They are layered with liquor and pure fruit juice, unlike some that are well known using powdered mix.

Jean Lafitte was a pirate and privateer working for the United States and helped to supply General Jackson during the Battle of New Orleans. The blacksmith shop was rumored to have been used to melt pirated jewelry into gold ingots after Jean’s raids.

Check out www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com for more information.

Port of Call

838 Esplanade Avenue

I first heard mention of the Port of Call in one of Jimmy Buffet’s books. He said it had some of the best cheeseburgers anywhere. We had been to NOLA a couple of times before I read Buffet’s book and on the next trip gave it a try. As far as I’m concerned he was right.

I’ve never had as good a cheeseburger anywhere. Well, other than my own grill, but that’s not a fair comparison.

I wish we had a photo, maybe next time, but you can find out more at their website: portofcallnola.com

Mulates

201 Julia St.

The food here is Cajun and quite tasty, but most come for the Zydeco music and the great dance floor. Mulate’s has some of the best Zydeco bands in the area serving up live music, and that means some of the best Zydeco bands anywhere. This is a regular stop for us, and we do enjoy the music. It’s just a few blocks from the French Quarter. A brisk walk or a short cab ride.

I enjoyed a nice blackened catfish. they have a good selection of seafood and Cajun dishes including Alligator. If you’ve never tried Alligator, it’s better than you may think. A real treat.

You can learn more at www.mulates.com.

The Balcony Music Club

1331 Decatur Street

After dinner, we  caught a cab to the Balcony Music Club or BMC. Located at the entrance to Frenchmen Street just outside of the French Quarter, the Balcony Music Club serves up music from the best New Orleans bands. The have a great music schedule, and I do recommend making the BMC a regular stop.

The first time we stopped by we caught a great band. Tyler Kinchen and the Right Pieces just tore the place up. They play newer music styles with a whole lot of soul.

I have a feeling that we will be seeing Tyler on the Billboard charts soon. He is one talented guy. A super singer and front man.

That’s not to slight the rest of the band though. Killer musicians all.

We stopped back a couple of days later for a blues jam session hosted by Smoky Greenwell and his band. Smoky is an excellent harmonica and saxophone player, which along with being a superb singer and front man, he pretty much provides the whole package.

As to the band itself, it is an excellent blues band. As a blue drummer myself, I thoroughly enjoyed sitting in with these world class bluesmen. You can get more on this website. www.smokystore.com

Cafe Fleur De Lis

307 Chartres Street

A couple of blocks down the street, we found this great breakfast/lunch restaurant. What a find it was. Boudin sausage, super omelets, killer Benedict dishes. I had a seafood benedict one day, and the Eggs Florentine on another. Both dishes hit the spot.

Unlike many restaurants I have been in, this one knows what a hollandaise sauce should taste like. And they make it happen.

We started out with mimosas and finished with irish coffee. A real treat, and the service was first rate.

Check out these drinks. I didn’t have the Bloody Mary, but it really looked tasty.

St Charles Street Car

The St. Charles Street Car, entertaining in itself, works it’s way through areas that comprise NOLA’s best restaurants, Tulane University, Audubon Park, and the Riverbend Area.

On the ride we met a number of very nice people that we had some lively conversations with. The folks in NOLA are definitely hospitable.

As we were riding along, one very pleasant lady suggested we get off for appetizers at the Superior Seafood and Oyster Bar. She played the spontaneous card, so we had no choice but to give it a try.

Superior Seafood and Oyster Bar

Stop number 24 on the St. Charles streetcar line on the corner of St. Charles and Napoleon Avenues (4338 St. Charles Avenue)

And what an appetizer we had. My wife loves raw beef and she thoroughly enjoyed the beef carpaccio. You can see how well this dish was presented.

I had the fried oysters. They were succulent and quite enjoyable, while our pal Monica had the shrimp remoulade.

The remoulades I have had have all been a red sauce. this one was a white sauce, which none of us were familiar with but it was a spicy treat.